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Pools · Spas · Buried lines

Swimming Pool Leak Detection in Los Angeles

Every pool loses water. In the San Fernando Valley, a hot week with a dry wind can pull the level down faster than most owners expect, and that’s just evaporation. A leak is whatever’s left after you rule evaporation out.

That’s where pool leak detection in Los Angeles starts for us. We separate the two first, then test the shell, the fittings and the buried plumbing until we can narrow down where the water is going. The aim is a marked spot, and the pool stays full the whole time.

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Backyard swimming pool with a wood deck and lounge chairs

Leak or evaporation?

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  • Evaporation ruled out first
  • Shell and fittings tested
  • Buried plumbing under the deck
  • The pool stays full the whole time

Signs worth checking

Signs your pool may be leaking

Faster than the bucket

The level drops faster than the bucket test says it should, or faster than a neighbor’s pool in the same weather.

Soggy ground

Wet or soggy ground near the pool or around the equipment pad.

New cracks

New cracks in the deck, the coping or the tile line.

Auto-fill always running

The auto-fill runs constantly, or the water bill keeps climbing.

Algae keeps coming back

Algae comes back soon after you treat it, because fresh fill water keeps diluting your chemicals.

The pump draws air

The pump draws air: bubbles at the returns, or a pump that keeps losing prime.

Two or three together usually means it’s time to test.

Try this first

Start with the bucket test

A bucket of pool water sitting on the step gets the same sun and wind as the pool. Both lose water to evaporation. Only the pool can lose it to a leak.

If the pool and the bucket dropped about the same, it’s evaporation. If the pool dropped noticeably more, the difference is leaving some other way. Rain spoils the result, so start over if it rains.

  1. Turn off the auto-fill and don’t add water during the test.
  2. Set a bucket on the first or second step.
  3. Fill it until the water inside matches the pool level outside.
  4. Mark the water line inside the bucket.
  5. Mark the pool level on the outside of the bucket.
  6. Run the pump on its normal schedule for 24 hours, with nobody swimming.
  7. Measure how far each level dropped.
  8. Reset the marks and repeat for 24 hours with the pump off.

Evaporation changes with heat, wind, shade and humidity, so a shaded pool in Encino and a pool in full sun a few miles west can lose very different amounts in the same week.

Reading the result

Is it the shell or the plumbing?

A pool leaks in the structure that holds the water or in the pipes that move it. They’re tested and repaired differently.

Your two bucket tests give the first clue.

More loss with the pump running

Losing more with the pump running often points to the return lines, which are under pressure while the pump runs.

More loss with the pump off

Losing more with the pump off tends to point to the suction side.

About the same both ways

If the loss is about the same both ways, the shell, the tile line or a fitting in the wall is the likelier suspect.

Water that drops and then holds at the skimmer or the light is often leaking at that height.

Where to look

Where pool leaks usually start

Dry summers, settling soil and the occasional earthquake all work on decks and the lines underneath them.

Drained swimming pool steps showing the tiled shell

Skimmer throat

Where the plastic skimmer body meets the concrete shell.

Return fittings

Where the seal can crack or pull away from the plaster.

Main drain

At the deepest point, which takes someone in the water to check.

Light niche

Where the conduit can give water a path out along the cord.

Tile line

Where grout loosens as the deck moves against the shell.

Plaster cracks

Hairline surface cracks are usually harmless. A crack through the shell isn’t.

Suction and return lines

Under the deck, where buried PVC can crack from soil movement or old glued joints let go.

Equipment pad

Where pump, filter, valve and heater joints drip. Hard water leaves a white crust that often gives a slow leak away.

Spa leak detection

Spa leak detection and pool-spa combos

A spa built into a pool shares much of its plumbing, so the two get checked together. The spillover edge can crack or lose its tile seal. Each spa jet has its own fitting and line, and the valves that switch water between pool and spa can let it slip through.

One pattern isn’t a leak at all. A raised spa that drops while the pool rises is usually water passing back through a leaking valve or a damaged spillover. It’s worth fixing, but the water hasn’t left your yard.

Family relaxing at the edge of a backyard swimming pool

After the leak is found

After the leak is found

You get a marked location and a plain explanation of what failed and what fixing it usually involves. If everything tests clean and the loss turns out to be evaporation, we’ll tell you that too.

We can talk you through repair options on site, and our leak repair page explains how repairs on buried lines usually go.

If the wet ground is out in the yard rather than beside the pool, a buried water line may be the real culprit. See underground and main line leak detection.

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FAQ

FAQs about pool leaks

How much water should a pool lose a day?

There’s no single number. Evaporation depends on heat, wind, shade and humidity, so the same pool loses very different amounts in July and January. The bucket test gives you a real answer for your pool. If the pool drops more than the bucket, something besides evaporation is taking water.

How long does pool leak detection take?

It depends on the pool. A pool with an attached spa, several returns and long runs back to the equipment has more lines to test than a simple rectangle. Tell us about your layout when you book and we’ll give you a better idea.

Pool dropping faster than the bucket? Let’s find out where it’s going.